The Mushroom Man

In the early morning hours, long before employees arrive, T.R. Davis walks between the metal racks stacked to the ceiling in a storage room of a small building off Interstate 44 in Missouri. All is quiet as he peers at each clear bag, noticing the black and white contents.

“It's kind of meditative,” Davis says. “No interruptions, just trying to catch small things as I go through every single day.”

Meanwhile, about 40 miles to the east on a cattle farm, his wife Jessica pushes back the plastic strips hanging from the entry door of a retrofitted old barn. She enters the mist. The same metal racks fill the space, only this time with emerging blooms of maitake mushrooms.

Mushroom cultivation is a mix of science and art. This former Marine and his wife found the right balance to appeal to two different markets — foodies and fellow growers.

The couple own Earth Angel Mushrooms, a commercial supplier of mushroom substrate and fresh maitake mushrooms, which started in 2014 in part of a small building on Bill and Linda McLaren’s cattle farm near Pacific, Missouri.

“I met them when I bought into a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture),” Davis says. “The beef came from their farm. And Bill was interested in my business of mushroom farming.”

At the time, the McLarens had remnants of an older barn at their Crooked Creek Beef ranch sitting idle. “He offered it to me to start up my indoor operation,” Davis adds. The McLarens used the site to build the current mushroom growing facility.

So, the mushroom farmer started raising fresh mushrooms on a beef farm, then selling them on a small scale to grocery stores, such as Schnucks and at farmers markets. The product line included oyster, shiitake, lion’s mane and king trumpet mushrooms.

However, during the entire cultivating and marketing process, Davis realized one portion of the market left unfulfilled — substrate. In 2019, he dramatically changed the entire business model.

Filling mushroom industry needs

While many mushroom growers try their hand at concocting substrate, it is not an easy process. Davis saw the opportunity to help. “I wanted to be an innovator in the U.S. mushroom industry,” he explains, “and this was one way, with my own creation.”

Earth Angel’s substrate or ready-to-fruit block is comprised of sawdust sourced from local Missouri sawmills, along with other amendments, such as soy hulls. Davis believed he found the right medium to allow mushroom mycelium to develop. And his reputation spread.

The company refocused on substrate sales and stopped growing all fresh mushroom species except one, maitake. Why? Partly because Davis likes a challenge.

Maitake, also known as “hen of the woods,” is commonly found in the wild but is difficult to grow indoors. “You need the right medium to raise them,” he explains. “Our substrate is made up of sawdust, and maitake like hardwoods.” Davis must also maintain constant humidity, temperature and ventilation to produce fruit.

Because maitake is difficult to grow, there are not as many suppliers. Combining that with its extended shelf life, Davis saw an increased profit margin with this specialty mushroom.

Still, he started small, producing 10 bags a week. “It was trial, trial, trial and trial,” he says. “Then after I felt comfortable with the end product, I moved to 30 bags, then 100, and then 500.”

Today, Earth Angel produces 1,200 bags of maitake mushrooms per week, shipping them across the country via Southwest air cargo in St. Louis to growers from Salt Lake City to Boston to Nashville and even Las Cruces, New Mexico. Most take center stage on dinner plates at high-end restaurants.

Success that satisfies

Davis admits cultivating mushrooms is not easy, scientifically or artistically, but it is one job that provides him with a sense of gratification at the end of a day’s work.

Leaning on the metal racks filled with bags of mushroom substrate, he pauses.

“I’ve always been pretty driven; the entrepreneurial thing was a natural,” he says. “The Marines taught me that there will be times when every cell in your body tells you to stop, but you don’t. You just keep going. You don’t quit. But that is just not for those in the military, it’s for business and life in general.”

“There may be times along the way that you fail,” he warns. “It may be miserable, but keep going because you’ll overcome the challenges and produce something to helps others, while finding something that satisfies you.”

EDITOR’S TAKE:

What a great success story! This underscores how farmers/ranchers react to markets and adjust their operation to meet the demand. In this instance, it involved using an old farm building and combining skill sets from both marriage partners to make it work. Although mushrooms may be difficult to grow, the couple was up to the challenge and their persistence has paid off in a big way. Be on the lookout for success stories involving your prospective farmer/rancher customers, who may deserve a special call-out! The recognition can provide a rewarding experience for both them and your dealership.